Diverse Kenya {Laikipia & Masai Mara in 11 days}
TRAVEL DATES: 11 to 20 SEPTEMBER 2021
When Travis and I start planning a trip we always ask ourselves: Do we pay more money to have a tour company put together our itinerary or do we save money and do it on our own? We have traveled both ways and honestly love both types of travel, but we decided that for this trip we really wanted to have a tour company put together an epic trip for us. We knew we wanted to go to the famous Maasai Mara area, but also knew while we were there we wanted to check out another part of Kenya and we had no idea where to go. When doing research online there were so many different tour companies, safari ideas, safari camps and trip ideas it was tough to narrow one down. In the end, we decided we really loved Timbuktu Travel because they could customize a trip for us and work around our budget.
First of all, I have to thank Jonty at Timbuktu Travel for putting together the most epic trip to Kenya for us. When I was looking into our big five year anniversary trip I was overwhelmed on all the options of things to do and places to stay in Kenya. I reached out to Jonty and explained on the phone what we were looking for and the final itinerary was perfection! Below is a breakdown of everything we did with links to our hotels. If you are interested in traveling to Africa, I highly recommend Timbuktu Travel!
LOCATION CHOICE: An African safari was on my top five must do list (I know my list keeps getting longer and longer - says Travis). There were so many countries to choose from, but after reaching out to a friend that is from Kenya I got advice on where our first safari should be. He hands down recommended Masai Mara. When we reached out to Jonty at Timbuktu Travel he agreed. We told him we wanted to add onto the trip a different landscape part of the country besides open reserves. He mentioned Laikipia - which would fulfill our hiking and outdoor portion of the trip. There are so many options out there, but we were so happy with our incredible trip to Kenya!
BUDGET ADVICE: We knew safari’s were expensive and we had saved up money so our five year wedding anniversary celebration would be something extra special. Also a safari had been on my travel list forever so wanted to really enjoy ourselves! We quickly learned why every safari adventure we looked into was pricey - they feed you like kings and queens. The two lodges we stayed at provided breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as drinks. We were constantly fed! The price also covered the daily park fees, guide fees (who were with us every day!) staffing, the lodging and more. You can cut down on price by staying at lower budget camps. We decided to stay at a very fancy place (running water and views) for the first part of our trip and a more common tent lodging (one bucket of hot water shower etc.) in Masai Mara to save some money. We had such a wonderful experience at both and are already saving our money to go back to another part of Africa for more safari exploration!
MUST PACK: So we were told before we left that we had to wear safari type clothes (light colors, light material etc) to avoid certain flys and animals attacking you so we went all out on safari gear. Turns out this is not true hahah (confirmed by our guides who wanted to know why tourists always wore these outfits). So final conclusion beyond basics make sure you don’t forget:
Wear whatever color clothing you want. Just make sure it is light material because it can get hot and if you are prone to sunburn then clothes that cover your arms and legs are best.
Swimsuit if your lodge has a pool
Pack a sun hat with large brim since both trucks did not have a roof and it is sunny and sunglasses
Bug spray and sunblock (I always pack these for every trip)
Good walking shoes and then flip flops for around your lodge
Warm jacket for early mornings and evenings when/if it gets cold
Cozy clothes for lounging at evening
All necessary medication and malaria meds
Camera!!
BEFORE TRAVEL: All visitors to Kenya have to apply for an e-visa online before travel. Due to travel in 2021 we also had to present a negative covid test, no earlier than 72 hours before flight departure, must be printed and presented when landing in Kenya. We were required to fill out a traveler health questionnaire where we were sent a personalized q-code to be scanned when we went through customs. I had most of the required vaccines so I only needed Yellow Fever, but CDC.GOV has a list of all the necessary vaccines for traveling to Kenya. We also needed Malaria pills based on the areas we were traveling to. With all this paperwork and medical prep we were more than for our safari trip!
TRAVEL DAY
As always, I rely on skyscanner.com to find the best flights/times/prices etc. Getting to Kenya from Seattle, WA was NO JOKE! We spent 28+ hours traveling until we landed at Nairobi airport and were picked up by our tour company representative. We were driven to Eka Hotel where we spent the next three evenings. It was 11:30pm when we finally got to our hotel room so we went straight to bed! I loved the welcome note left in the room from our tour company - a nice personal touch.
11 SEP 21 / REST IN NAIROBI:
We normally jump right into things when we travel Internationally, but this time around we knew all of the traveling and with the 10 hour time change we would want a day of rest before doing anything. So we spent the day in our hotel room sleeping a lot, eating at the very nice restaurant and chilling pool side reading our books. Oh and I can’t forget drinking our new favorite local beer - Tusker!
12 SEP 21 / EXPLORE NAIROBI ELEPHANT ORPHANAGE & GIRAFFE CENTER:
After a full day of rest at the hotel, we were ready for our first adventure in Nairobi. We enjoyed a nice breakfast before heading out with Rafael to the Elephant Orphanage. On the way, we drove past Nairobi National Park, a massive wildlife preserve that is fenced on three sides to allow for the migration of wild animals. A few mischievous baboons had jumped the fence and were relaxing by the side of the road.
We arrived at the Elephant Orphanage shortly before they opened for the day. Once inside, we passed a temperature check and were directed to a large roped off area. One by one, the baby elephants began trotting into the feeding area, where the workers would hand feed each one with giant bottles filled with human baby formula. In total, there were 13 elephants at the orphanage. Each one was rescued from the wild after being found with health issues, stuck in wells, or abandoned by their mother. After feeding time, they began playing in the dirt, munching on tree branches, and wrestling with each other. They felt comfortable enough with our presence to walk by the ropes and let us pet their skin, which was rough and covered with course, wiry black hair. After their rehabilitation period at the orphanage, the elephants are released back into the wild to join a herd and hopefully start a family.
Our next stop in Nairobi was the Giraffe Center. Upon entry we received a small coconut shell filled with vegetable pellets and were instructed to feed the giraffes one pellet at a time using our thumb and index finger. We were a little nervous at first holding our fingers out to these giant animals, but they were extremely gentle and gingerly plucked each pellet out of our fingers with their long black tongues. The tongues felt rough and slimy all at the same time, very strange! The giraffes had their own feeding rotation system in place, and after a while a fresh set would stroll up to the fence and take their turn. We learned about the three different types of giraffes (Maasai, Rothschild and Reticulated), and how to differentiate them based on their spots.
After the giraffe center, we ate a delicious lunch of seafood curry and Asian duck (and of course a few Tuskers) before heading to the Karen Blixen Museum. She was a famous philanthropist who started as the wife of a failed coffee farmer, and became an iconic figure in Kenyan history. She wrote several books, including “Out of Africa,” and started a medical college for women. We toured her house and the old coffee farm before heading back to the hotel to rest up for the next day’s adventure.
13 SEP 21 / FLY TO LAIKIPIA, KENYA
Our driver picked us up early in the morning for our trip to the regional airport. During the short drive, we saw the hustle and bustle of the city. Open air markets, restaurants and bars, crowded streets and tin houses, and half-finished highway construction financed by Chinese “investment.”
We pulled up to the small, dusty airport and let our guide handle our check-in process. After a short wait in the one room lounge area, we donned our masks and boarded the 11 seater plane for a one hour hop to Laikipia. As soon as we left the city the landscape transformed into beautiful farmland and countryside with Mt. Kenya looming in the distance. We were so excited, our eyes strained to spot the myriad of wildlife in the sprawling plains below.
After landing, our bush guides Juma and Gus greeted us in traditional tribal clothing and escorted us to the safari jeep. During the offroad trek to the camp, we got our first taste of African wildlife. We came across giraffes, zebras, impalas, dik dik, and a variety of beautiful birds. The landscape was dusty and rocky with scraggly brush and short trees. The rocks and cliffs were red and orange, similar to the hues of Arizona and Utah. Arriving at Sabuk Lodge after a bumpy ride, we were brimming with excitement for what Northern Kenya had to offer!
SABUK LODGE @ LAIKIPIA, KENYA
Our lodge at Laikipia was picked out by Jonty at Timbuktu Travel and below are the details provided by the company:
Location: Laikipia Plateau, Northern Kenya
No of rooms: Sabuk Lodge has 6 rooms, Eagle Cottage (2 rooms), Sabuk Fly Camp can be up to five tents
Style: Relaxed lodge in remote wilderness
Highlights: Fly camping
Dining: Eat together, bush meals available
What’s the difference: Remote wilderness good for the soul.
The Luxury Safari Company Award for: Best kept secret in Laikipia.
Sabuk Lodge is perched on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River and has six beautiful open sided en suite cottages, plus Eagle Cottage which is a family cottage, including its own plunge pool and private dining area. Sabuk was built out of the local landscape using locally sourced materials and faces the river gorge which is 150ft below.
Fly camp from Sabuk with a professional guide as your host, and experience true wilderness in an untouched unexplored area of Laikipia. You can get to the fly camp by foot, with camels accompanying you, and Laikipia Masai warriors as your guides and experts through breathtaking scenery.
Sabuk offers guided bush walks, camel assisted walking safaris, game drives, sundowners, swimming pool, fly camping, river line fishing, river swimming and cultural visits.
Sabuk also supports the local community through a bed night fee which goes direct to the Nalare community. The lodge has also helped to build houses for four teachers at the local primary school, and has fenced the school, providing safety for the children, as well as providing materials and sports equipment. It has also funded a solar panel and battery, a computer, classrooms and a teachers block. Sabuk has also funded the installation of two fresh water boreholes.
“It’s hard to describe how amazingly cool this lodge was. Each hut was tucked away with its own private path. Our open-air room had a panoramic view of the countryside and there was the ever-present hum of the rapids below. Even our outdoor shower had a view! The rocky floors and walls were built by hand and contained accents of embedded glass and driftwood. We could take in the scenery from our private balcony, or simply lay in bed and watch for animals in the hills. ”
“Each morning as we woke to the sunrise and birdsong, we were served fresh coffee and biscuits in our room. When we were ready, we’d head to the common area and have breakfast and discuss the day’s plans”
13-16 SEP 19 / EXPLORE LAIKIPIA: SUNDOWNER HIKE, RIVER DAY, CAMEL RIDE, ELEPHANT ADVENTURE & MORE
SUNDOWNER: Gus and Juma were such amazing guides and we felt soooo safe with them. After we settled into our hotel on the first day we did a two mile “sundowner” hike to view the countryside from several beautiful viewpoints. We searched for wildlife and soaked in the vastness of the Kenyan landscape while getting to know our wonderful guides. Gus always carried a rifle for protection and Juma did most of the talking, explaining the different plants and animals to us. As the sun set we enjoyed some whiskey and snacks on a rocky ledge while Gus kept an eye out for more wildlife. We then walked back to the lodge where the fire was already lit for us. The chef brought out a delicious dinner of curried chicken and rice with broccoli. After dinner we had a drink by the fire and then we were escorted back to our cottage and fell asleep immediately to the sounds of the rushing river below.
RIVER ADVENTURE: Our first full day in Laikipia we hiked down to the river with Gus and Juma while pack camels followed us with all of our lunch supplies. The lodge staff set up a table and cooler in the shade of a tree by the river. We enjoyed a nice afternoon lunch, a couple of Tuskers, and a brisk swim.
After lunch, Gus and Juma showed us how the locals fish in the river using corn meal and bread as bait. Our rods were bamboo sticks with no reel and limited fishing line, so you really had to pick your spot carefully! While we fished, the pack camels grazed on the cactus and leaves along the river bank. After our relaxing, sun soaked day on the river, we hiked back to the lodge keeping an eye out for animal tracks and cactus flowers.
CAMEL WALK: Kiiana and Toby, our trusty camels, carried us along the trail into the higher areas which gave us a fantastic panoramic view. If you look closely, you can spot the tiny, adorable, and skittish Dic Dic sprinting through the brush. We stopped on a large plateau overlooking a watering hole and enjoyed a delicious breakfast of eggs, toast, sausage, and bacon! Using binoculars, we watched a herd of giraffes cautiously drink from one of the few watering holes in the area. Such a great way to get out and explore Kenya!
ELEPHANT DISCOVERY: Although we chose this lodge and location to do more outdoor hiking and less game drives, the lodge manager learned how much I really wanted to see elephants while in Kenya. So near sunset, Gus and Juma took us out into the park to search for them. It didn’t take long before we came across a mother and her calf grazing on the side of the road. They noticed our presence but weren’t too scared or concerned, although the mother almost always kept herself between us and the calf. We were amazed at how close they let us get to them and even crossed the road right in front of the truck!
“It’s so difficult to comprehend how big and majestic these elephants are until you see them in person. Their eyes are intelligent and kind and I couldn’t get enough of them. Beautiful animals! ”
After our elephant excursion we stopped by the river and met a couple farmers and their donkey. They have a unique and terrifying way of collecting honey by hanging homemade beehives in the trees and then climbing up to gather the honey by hand. We enjoyed a nice sundowner while Juma and Gus posed for some portraits. Tomorrow we fly to the famous Masai Mara!
16 SEP 21 / MASAI MARA DAY ONE
After a short flight from Laikipia, we landed in the Masai Mara, a 580 sq mile conservation park in the northernmost section of the Serengeti. Our guide Leko and our spotter Benson picked us up in the Land Cruiser and brought us to the river for lunch and beers. The river was filled with massive hippos which you could easily see (and smell) from the riverbank. As we ate lunch, we watched them swim, sunbathe, and play in the muddy waters. Although they seemed slow and docile from afar, hippos are among the most dangerous animals in the world, killing an estimated 500 people every year in Africa.
We continued our game drive looking for lions. Benson spotted a pair of lionesses on a mound about a quarter mile from the road. The big cats sunbathed and lazily kept their eye on the horizon for lunch. They were completely relaxed, yawning and panting in the hot mid-morning sun. I don’t think we took a full breath the entire time.
After the lions we continued our game drive while making our way to the lodge. Leko drove while Benson looked out onto the Serengeti through the top of the Land Cruiser. When they spotted something, they would drive up close and explain what type of animal it was. We saw many birds, hyenas, water buffalo, elephants, hippos on land (not very common during the day), zebras, and several types of antelope including the Topi who looks like he is wearing blue jeans.
I don’t know how they do it, but Leko and Benson spotted this pair of lions from about a mile away. Their sandy coloring blends in so well with the grass we had a hard time seeing them even through the binoculars. Just like last time, Leko drove us up close and we got our first glimpse of a massive male lion. It was mating season so he was courting his lioness lover. If they look tired, it’s because a lioness will mate up to 100 times a day with an average interval of 15 minutes. It was fun to photograph the big cat yawning in order to see his massive teeth. The lioness will spray urine and pheromones around the male, which he then sniffs deeply and makes a very funny face like he is about to sneeze.
A little farther down the road, we spotted a small herd of elephants. Just like in Laikipia, they didn’t seem to mind our presence, although the mother always kept a close eye on us. There were four elephants in total. The youngest and the juvenile stayed close by their mother and mimicked her actions. The youngest was probably one year old and just beginning to master the use of its trunk for gathering food and drinking water.
I love that we went straight to the game drive after being picked up from the airport. We spent all day out on the National Reserve and when it started to get dark we headed to our camp for the next few days!
SPEKE’S CAMP @ MASAI MARA, KENYA
Our lodge near Masai Mara National Reserve was picked out by Jonty at Timbuktu Travel and below are the details provided by the company:
Speke’s Camp is a small tented camp in a great location between Kenya's Mara North Conservancy, Olare Orok Conservancy, and the main Maasai Mara Reserve. The set-up is traditional safari style with a distinct colonial-era feel in a wonderfully secluded spot amongst stands of indigenous woodland along the Olare Orok River. Nine canvas tents provide a good level of comfort, with owner-run hospitality and friendly local staff. This area is well known for its excellent game viewing, particularly the big cats, a variety of plains game, and vast herds of wildebeest during the annual migration between July and October.
We were once again the only guests at this lodge in Masai Mara! I guess that is the one advantage of traveling so close to the lifting of covid restrictions. The staff was so friendly and the food was amazing! We loved the traditional tent like camp and being along the river. We would hear all the animals at night and had a guard to make sure we were safe from any wandering animals into our camp!
17 SEP 21 / MASAI MARA DAY TWO
On our second day on the Mara, we decided to get up before dawn to catch sunrise over the Serengeti. We enjoyed some hot coffee to take the chilly edge off the morning, and watched as the sky exploded with deep purples, oranges, and reds to welcome the new day.
We spotted many other animals, such as pumbas (warthogs), waterbucks (large antelope), tortoise, buffalo, a very relaxed hyena taking a mudbath! Leko explained how the warthogs aren’t very bright (Pumba means slow-witted in Swahili), and sometimes when they are being chased by a lion they will forget that they are running for their lives, stop mid-chase, and get eaten.
After sunrise we came across a pack of hyenas! They were unsure of us at first but slowly got used to our presence. We had no idea how adorable hyenas would be in person, and instantly fell in love with their cute, playful personalities. We noticed they were all taking turns feeding on the carcass of a warthog that was hidden in a hole. On the left you can see a trio of living warthogs with their tails high in the air like antennae.
On our way to the breakfast spot, we spotted more sunbathing lions. Leko suspected that the female might be pregnant. Another male ended up joining the pair, and everyone seemed relaxed. We drove (not very far) around the corner and set up our bush breakfast complete with coffee, eggs, bacon, fruit, yogurt, toast, and jams. We ate well on the Mara!
“As much as I love photos of landscape and animals, I think it is super important to include ourselves in a lot of the photos - because we were there and I want to always have these photo memories of our excited faces experiencing these moments! ”
Later in the day, Leko and Benson noticed the other animals acting strange and on high alert. Leko determined that a cheetah was in the area, and after some driving around we found him enjoying the shade in a small cluster of trees. He was very long and slender, and looked fast even lying down! Cheetahs have excellent eyesight, and they are constantly scanning for prey that they can chase into the open fields, since nothing can outrun them.
We also joined a group of other safari trucks to catch a glimpse of the highly elusive leopard. He was perfectly camouflaged on a dirt mound underneath a tree. Unlike the cheetah, they rely on ambush instead of speed, and as such they spend most of their time almost completely hidden from sight.
We spotted a flock of vultures feasting on a dead zebra. By the following day, there would only be a few zebra bones remaining. We made our way back to the lodge for lunch and a break during the heat of the day. We had to cross through a herd of cows to get through the riverbed. We enjoyed some cold Tuskers with our meal!
We went back out for a sundowner! During our evening ride, we spotted this lovely family of giraffes. There were two adults and three babies trotting across the plains. These are Masai giraffes, with jigsaw puzzle-like spots. They let us drive up and take pictures, but when we got too close, they’d take off in a run. They are very fast with those long legs!
As the sun began to set, we spotted another lion. This was a large, older male by himself near the tree-line. Aside from his size, you can tell that he is older by the dark color of his massive mane.
We found a lovely spot to watch the sun set, chat with Leko and Benson, and enjoy some gin and tonics with a popcorn snack. From sun up to sun down, we took in the magic and beauty of the Masai Mara with our new friends.
18 SEP 21 / MASAI MARA DAY THREE
I remember before booking this trip asking my parents (who had already done two safari trips) if the game drive days ever felt repetitive? They told me no way and they were 100% right! Every single day was different, we would see new animals or landscape. Every day was different and I was so excited each morning to discover a new animal or interaction between the wildlife out in the wild.
Our mission this day was to go see the wildebeest cross the river as part of their migration. We planned our trip to have some time to see the end of this famous migration as we heard this was something we couldn’t miss while visiting Africa. It was about a two hour drive and on the way, we stopped to observe many different animals: waterbucks, cheetahs, hyenas, and several exotic birds to include a massive ostrich!
I loved watching all the animals live and interact in one massive space. Looking out of the open space of the truck, I found the little dots of zebras and wildebeest intermingling to be very mesmerizing. We came across a large herd of zebras and noticed that one was badly injured (not pictured). Although he narrowly escaped an attack by some large predator, Leko noted that the hyenas would likely follow him over the following days and eventually take him down. Circle of life…
When we arrived at the Mara River, we stopped to watch the hippos along the river bank. We also saw several hungry crocodiles in the river, who also came to watch the wildebeest crossing.
We posted up with the other safari trucks at a safe distance so that we wouldn’t spook the animals. Finally, a brave group of wildebeest initiated a crossing, followed by the rest of the herd. All of the safari trucks started their engines and raced down to watch the crossing. Most of them made it safely to our side of the river to continue their migration. A few, however, became lunch for the crocodiles.
19 SEP 21 / MASAI MARA DAY FOUR
Woke up early for another beautiful sunrise on the Mara, however soon after entering the park, the car broke down! Leko figured out the problem (something with the clutch) and called the camp on the radio to have a replacement car sent out. We felt super safe with them and it was a fun little hiccup that allowed us to take time to eat breakfast and use the binoculars to spot more animals. Afterwards we continued our adventure day and came across some more elephants.
I will never ever get over seeing elephants in the wild! They are such beautiful, strong and magestic animals that make my heart so happy.
Later in the drive, we crossed a river filled with hippo poo, saw a bird hitch a ride on a water buffalo, and cozied up to a pride of lions relaxing in the bushes. It’s amazing how much the animals, and especially the lions, just let you drive up next to them and watch them go about their normal day.
While driving up to observe some giraffes, Leko and Benson pointed out a beautiful wild cat called a serval. They are hard to spot due to their small size and camouflage, but we were lucky enough to watch him hunt for lunch in the tall grass.
In the afternoon we came across four cheetahs that Leko recognized as brothers. Everyone was watching, hoping that the cheetahs would spot something on the horizon and take off on a hunt, but the sun was hot and high in the sky, and the cheetahs were content to nap in the shade of a single tree, which they often sprayed to mark their territory.
Benson showed us a neat trick to take photos through the binoculars. As the sun set on another amazing day in the Masai mara, we reflected on how lucky we were to be in such a magical place, full of life and natural beauty.
20 SEP / GOODBYE MASAI MARA & FLY TO NAIROBI
On our final morning in the Masai Mara, we took one final game drive on our way to the airport. We saw giraffes, cheetahs, antelopes, topi, and water buffalo. We set up breakfast by the river and watched the hippos swim and play. Leko and Benson posed for some portraits as we said goodbye to our new friends and this beautiful place.
Right next to the airfield, we saw a pair of lionesses caring for cubs by a small river. We stopped and watched them play and sunbathe while waiting for our plane to arrive.
As our plane took off for Nairobi, and the Masai Mara grew smaller beneath us, we reflected on our amazing trip and all the wonderful experiences we had. We’ll never forget the friends we made, the animals we encountered, and the incredibly breathtaking beauty of Kenya!
Our trip back to Seattle was 30+ hours so we took some time to rest in a hotel at the airport in Nairobi before we flew out at 11pm. We arrived in America exhausted, excited to see the pups and overjoyed with such a great trip to AFRICA!
Now which African country do we visit next???
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